DETAILS
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NAPOLENA
（ナポレナ）NAPOLENA（ナポレナ）は1981年誕生以来、高級原料と日本の職人技術を駆使し世界に通用する純国産服地としてオーダースーツ愛好家から高い評価を得ています。24年より展開した上質原料ディープクリンプ種が大変好評につき、45年の節目に同原料のスーツ素材20色をパッケージしたバンチをリリースします。御幸毛織が永年培った技術、拘りが結集した本素材の五つのポイントを紹介します。
Since its debut in 1981, NAPOLENA has been highly regarded by discerning bespoke tailoring enthusiasts for its composition of premium fibres and its showcasing of the meticulous craftsmanship of our Japanese textile artisans. As a proudly Japanese-made cloth with international appeal, it has established a reputation for excellence among those who appreciate authenticity and quality.
Building on the success of the Deep Crimp wool collection introduced in 2024, MIYUKI celebrates the 45th anniversary of NAPOLENA with a new bunch book comprising twenty suiting fabrics crafted from this exceptional fibre.
Bringing together decades of technical expertise and an unwavering commitment to quality, this fabric reflects the very essence of MIYUKI's cloth-making philosophy. We invite you to discover the five defining characteristics that make it unique.
SUPER FINE MERINO WOOL
豪州ヴィクトリア州を中心に生産される希少原料、ディープクリンプ種を使用。一般のメリノウールよりもクリンプ（縮れ）が深く細かい形状により繊維１本１本に均一性があるため、滑らかな感触と光沢感がありハイクラスのスーツ地に適した質感が得られます。マイクロンは繊細さと耐久性のバランスから17μ(SUPER130's)をセレクトしました。
This fabric is crafted from Deep Crimp wool, a rare and highly prized fibre grown in Victoria, Australia. Distinguished by its tighter natural crimp compared with conventional Merino wool, the fibre offers exceptional uniformity from strand to strand. This unique characteristic imparts a remarkably smooth handle, elegant lustre and refined appearance, making it ideally suited to high-end suiting. For the perfect balance of fineness and durability, MIYUKI has selected 17-micron Super 130's Merino wool, delivering luxurious softness yet keeping the resilience required for everyday tailoring.
TWO FOLDED YARN
SUPER FINE WOOLは通常縦は丈夫な双糸(TWO FOLDED YARN)で、横糸は極細の単糸（SINGLE YARN)を用いて、きめ細やかな表面感にすることで上質感をもたせますが、本素材は縦横91番手双糸を使用し、原料本来の膨らみと、ビジネスウエアとしての耐久性を優先しています。
While fine Super Fine Wool fabrics traditionally combine two-fold warp yarns with ultra-fine single weft yarns resulting in a rather delicate surface, this cloth is woven with 91/2 two-fold yarns in both warp and weft. This construction enhances the wool's natural fullness, providing the durability and resilience required for business suiting, resulting in a fabric of exceptional balance and character.
SQUARE SET DESIGN
ウール繊維は吸湿性があり、夏場や縫製時の高湿度の環境においては、製品での型崩れやパーツ段階で形状変化が起こりやすくなります。本素材は湿度の影響を受けにくく、より織物としての安定感を求め、TWO FOLDED YARNの縦横使用に合わせ、縦横ほぼ同本数で織るSQUARE SET DESIGNで設計しています。
Wool fibres are naturally hygroscopic and can be susceptible to distortion in humid conditions. To achieve optimal dimensional stability, this fabric is designed using a Square Set Construction, employing two-fold yarns in both warp and weft and an almost equal thread count in each direction. The result is a balanced, stable woven structure that is minimally affected by changes in humidity.
SLOW WEAVE
マイクロンが細い繊細なウール糸は、湿度の影響を受けやすくデリケートな為、織機上では糸にストレスを与えないようゆっくり織る綿密なテンション管理が必要になります。本素材は一般の織物よりも織機の回転数を落とし、織物として糸が馴染み、ウール本来の柔らかい風合いが生きるよう織られています。
Fine micron wool yarns are naturally delicate and highly susceptible to changes in humidity. To prevent unnecessary stress being placed on the yarn during weaving, careful tension control and a slower weaving process are required. Lower weaving speeds allow the yarns to relax naturally within the cloth. This approach sustains the inherent softness of the wool, enhancing the fabric's natural handle.
GENTLE FINISH
毛織物の整理加工では、毛羽焼き、洗浄、プレス等、ハードな工程で仕上げます。織機で丁寧に織られた生機（キバタ）は、工程を進むごとに表情を変えるため、物性と寸法を保つためには、工程毎に織物を寝かし休ませるGENTLE FINISHを行ってます。ゆっくり作られた織物は製品でのプレス加工等でも変化が少なく品質が安定しています。
Wool fabrics are finished through a series of intensive processes, including singeing, scouring and pressing. To preserve both dimensional stability and fabric performance, the cloth is allowed to recuperate between each stage of finishing through our unique Aging Finish process. This gradual approach enables the fabric to settle naturally, resulting in a stable cloth that remains consistent during garment manufacturing and pressing.
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